Asia By Bus, Train and Boat

Southeast Asia

Asia, in my opinion, is one of the best places to travel. It's like Europe but better - friendlier people, richer history, better food, safer and cheaper. Southeast Asia has been a beacon for young travelers for decades. My Asian explorations started there in early 1990's and I kept on going back. It's always good to go back, despite stark changes over the past 35 years.

Thailand

Landing at the old airport in Bangkok on my first trip to Asia was an unforgettable experience. After exiting airport building, I boarded a city bus in the wrong direction and instead of the city center, I ended up in a remote suburb of the city. To make things worse, I managed to leave my Lonely planet guidebook on the bus when I was kicked out at the last stop. In those days, a Lonely Planet guidebook was every backpacker's bible, an essential tool for survival. Somehow, I made it to the center, through horrendous Bangkok traffic, and found backpackers enclave of Khao San Road.

Even though these days, I avoid Khao San Road like a plague, back then, I was in heaven. It had everything a backpacker needed, including Lonely Planet guidebooks. Food and accommodation were incredibly cheap and people were much nicer than today. But that's probably true of any other touristy place in the world.

During my extended stay in Thailand, I bought a motorcycle and rode all around Thailand and neighboring countries. During both riding and backpacking trips, I visited a number of tropical islands of SE Asia.

Royal Palace in Bangkok on my first trip to Asia.

Elephant riding was quite exotic back then.

Thai islands used to be picture-perfect.

Similan Islands off the west coast of Thailand - a jewel of Indian ocean.

Even Samui island was an uspoiled paradise, once upon a time.

One of many beautiful temples in Chiang Mai.

Thailand is a convenient base jump-off point to explore other SE Asian countries - Vietnam, Indonesia, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar, Malaysia, Indonesia and Philippines. I explored all of them as a backpacker and on a motorcycle. Sadly, motorcycle travel is logistically much more complicated and many borders are impossible to cross. Myanmar does not allow foreign vehicles, Vietnam allows theoretically, but in reality, it's virtually impossible, motorcycles are not allowe across bridges between Thailand and Laos, Cambodian customs officials won't issue the required temporary permit... If one takes into account rather high traffic accident death rate in these countries, backpacking seems a much safer option.

Laos

Laos is a quieter, more laid-back version of Thailand. While the food and culture are similar, the general feeling when traveling around Laos is very different. Laos is much more mountaineous and forested but the infrasctructure lags behind that of Thailand.

One of numerous temples in Luang Phrabang, a UNESCO heritage city in northern Laos.

Another temple in Luang Phrabang.

Luang Phrabang.

Lush, jungle-covered, limestone cliffs of central Laos.

Vietnam

Unlike Laos, which has not changed since my first visit, Vietnam has gone through a dramatic change over the years, though not quit like China. When I backpacked through it, from the south all the way up to the Chinese border, I only got a taste of the country but didn't get to explore it in more depth. On my more recent trip to Vietnam, I focused on the North only, rented a scooter and rode it around for 2500km.

Vietnam was just opening and many of the coastal towns were stiil undeveloped.

Old style fishing "boat" in Vietnam.

Halong Bay - an impressive UNESCO World heritage site.

Welcome to Vietnam.

Houses along Ho Tay lake in Hanoi. Traditionally, houses in Vietnam are built tall and deep, but very narrow because in the old days, taxes were paid based on the house width.

One of many floating restaurants on Ho Tay lake in Hanoi.

A street performer in Hanoi. On weekends, avenues around Ho Hoan Kiem lake are closed to traffic so that people can walk around. There are hundreds of street performers and kids playing various games.

An old pagoda on lake Ho Hoan Kiem Lake.

Chinese influece can be felt and seen everywhere, but especially in temples.

Another popular temple in Hanoi.

Flower seller in Hanoi.

Rice terraces of northern Vietnam.

A lady in the countryside.

There are many minorieties in northern Vietnam.

Northern Vietnam is mountainous with many limestone rock formations.

Cambodia

After my first big backpacking trip through SE Asia, I have visited Cambodia several more times, on motorcycle and as a backpacker. After riding every major road of the country, I feel that Angkor Wat and Phnom Penh are the most interesting places to visit in Cambodia.

My first visit to Cambodia's Angkor Wat during a three month tour of SE Asia and China.

Bayon temple during my first visit to Cambodia.

A Cambodian wedding.

One of many temples around Angkor Wat.

Bayon temple.

Tomb raider temple.

Malaysia

Malaysia is a quieter, safer and more relaxed version of Thailand. It hosts an amazing mix of cultures, traditions and foods - Chinese, Indian and Malay. There are some picture-perfect islands and jungle-covered mountains to explore.

Malaysia has two parts - peninsular and Borneo (Sarawak and Sabah). While the peninsular Malaysia is well-urbanized, Borneo part is still raw and much more interesting for exploration. Public transportation is cheap and convenient. Safety in Malaysia is not a concern.

My first visit to Taman Negara - the most famous national park in Malaysia.

Kuala Lumpur main train station near the downtown.

Atop one of Kuala Lumpur's rooftop bars.

Kuala Lumpur's landmark - Petronas towers.

A mosque outside Malacca. Water is of utmost importance for all living organisms and it plays an important role in Islam. For this reason, Mosques surrounded by water are very special.

A picture-perfect beach of Perhentian islands.

Bungalows on the back side of Tioman island.

Tranquil Chinese Temple in Malacca.

Borneo, world's 3rd largest island, is shared between Malaysia and Indonesia. While the Indonesian part is much bigger, I only got a chance to explore Malaysian part, including two days in Brunei.

Kuching, the capital of Sarawak province, was a pleasant city to spend a few days.

Exploring Borneo's jungle.

Traditional Iban people of Borneo.

Black pepper is still a big source of income for Iban people in remote areas of Borneo.

After a long boat trip up Rajang river from Sibu.

In jungle-covered highlands of Sarawak.

Giant roots.

Philippines

Philippines are blessed with over 7,000 topical islands, many of them picture-perfect tropical paradises like nowhere else. I've made a few trips to Philippines visiting some of its numerous islands. First trip was a 3-day ordeal to reach El Nido on Palawan island. From what I hear, these days, Palawan is much easier to reach and sadly, much less of a paradise.

Borocay is another paradise lost to mass tourism. After all, who would miss posting selfies from a dazzling-white sand beach on their social media. However, Philippines has many more islands and beaches to explore and staying off the beaten path is easy.

One of many islands around Palawan.

Island hopping around Palawan.

Island hopping around Palawan.

Sunset on Negros island, Philippines.

Relaxing on the \'other" side of Malapscua island.

Quiet Malapascua island beach.

Dazzling white sand beach of Malapascua island.

Indonesia

Indonesia features even more islands - 17,000 of them. Opportunities for island hopping are endless. Infrastructure can be challenging, but it adds to the adventure factor.

Transportation can be challenging at times. Also, double pricing and scams are rampant in touristy areas. But there are plenty of normal places where tourism hasn't destroyed the culture.

Borobudur sunset - one of the most important Buddhist monasteries anywhere.

Rikshaws are still used for public transport in Indonesia.

Indonesian moto taxi.

A pond in Ubud, artsy mountain city on Bali.

Friendly Indonesian girls.

Grab moto taxi service in Jakarta.

Riding through endless rice fields of Sumatra.

Spices in an Indonesian market.

I spent a day in this tranquil valley.

A Sumatran style palace.

Myanmar

After all these years, still shrouded under the veil of mystery, this laid-back and deeply Buddhist country is firmly on the backpackers' trail. Infrastructure and transportation can be challenging, but there are many rewarding experiences to be had as well.

Sadly, this country is the only road block preventing overland travel from Europe to SE Asia. Independent driving through Myanmar has be impossible for many years now. Things are not looking good for the future as the internal fighting has flared up yet again.

Due to all these restrictions and problems, I've visited this country only once. Hopefully one day, things improve and I get to explore it more.

Yangoon's Shwedagon pagoda and temple complex.

A boy selling souvenirs in Yangoon.

Mandalay - heavy Indian influence.

Myanmar girl at a temple in Mandalay.

My scooter tour guide around Mandalay took me to the famous "monk restaurant".

Myanmar girls with traditional makeup.

There are no cars on this river island filled with temples.

Fruit sellers on a boat along river Irawaddy.

With a local monk near Bagan.

Local ladies posing for tips near Bagan.

At a temple in Bagan.

Sunset over Bagan temples.

East Asia

Despite glitzy urban centers, SE Asia is still undeveloped. East Asia is quite different. Japan, S. Korea and Taiwan are all first world countries. Travel by public transport is fast, comfortable and convenient. China's countryside is still quite poor, but cities are on par or ahead of their western counterparts. Intercity train travel was cheap and convenient and now is world's fastest too.

Shinkansen in Tokyo.

Typical Japanese park.

A temple in Tokyo.

A temple in Kyoto.

A national park in Korea.

High above Seoul.

Of all the countries that I've been visiting for the past 40 years, China has undergone the most amazing transformation. Back in 1999, when I visited it for the first time, it was an undeveloped, gloomy and hard to get around place. One month of travel around China during Chinese New Year was as challenging as traveling around Africa. Fast forward 20 years and China is more modern and advanced than most European countries. Travel is easy, convenient and highly rewarding.

With a Yunan family in remote village.

Tibetans in the mountains of Sichuan.

In the mountains of Sichuan.

A temple in Sichuan province.

The new face of China.

Exploring Beijing on a bicycle.

On the Great Wall outside Beijing.

Beijing's Temple of Heaven.

Taiwan, my personal favorite, is a hidden gem of the Far East, and I hope it stays that way. It's a lush subtropical island with an eclectic mix of modern and traditional, urban and natural. From glitzy malls to busy night markets, from high tech center of Hsinchu to deserted beaches in the Southeast, it's got something to offer to anyone.

Entrance to the Tarogo Gorge, one of premier scenic spots of Taiwan.

There are lots of beautiful hiking trails in Taiwan.

Crystal clear water flowing through Tarogo Gorge.

There are 4 highways crossing the island from west to east.

East coast highway is more spectacular than California's Pacific Coast Highway.

Even electric scooter came in handy in Southern Taiwan.

At Sun Moon lake.

Cheng Kai Shek's thomb.

Jiufen - a restored mountain village outside Taipei.

An attraction along the east coast of Taiwan.

A quiet beach in SE Taiwan.

Enclaves of Wealth - Hong Kong, Singapore and Brunei

Unlike Thailand, Hong Kong was a prime example of a first world, modern and urban city. Besides Rio de Janeiro, Hong Kong has the most dramatic city scape in the world - ocean, busy harbor, dense forest of skyscrapers with verdant hills behind and Victoria's peak on Hong Kong island from which to enjoy it all.

Modern skyscraper in Hong Kong.

Busy Hong Kong harbor.

With friends in Hong Kong.

Brunei.

While Brunei's wealth is derived from oil, Singapore achieved its status based on hard work and discipline. While safe, clean and perfectly comfortable, both places lack anything to keep a visitor for more than a day or two.

With friends in Singapore.